[I didn’t take any pictures in the place so I’m going to provide stock photos that I think will give you an idea of the general ambience.]
[Eg this picture might imply that Ossegg was either a glass cube or an Apple Store, but I’m actually just trying to make the point that it was super modern and pretty clinical – and not all that pleasant.]
It’s been a long, long time since I last posted one of my infamous Prague pub reviews. I’m having to stretch my memory as far as I can to recall my August trip to OSSEGG, a bar in the gentrified area around Náměstí Míru.
As my passive aggressive caption implies, the atmosphere at OSSEGG isn’t super welcoming: the classic Czech pub dark colours and permanent twilight were conspicuously absent, and instead customers sit at tall, minimalist tables drenched in daylight from the floor-to-ceiling windows. Personally, it strikes me that twilight is the perfect time to drink beer, and all pubs should attempt to prolong dusk as much as possible. Perhaps this stems from an innate belief that all humans look best in half-light, but I do try and avoid bright lights as much as possible, even going so far as to carry emergency sunglasses in my jacket pocket, lest I be suddenly thrust into some unpleasantly well-lit environs.
OSSEGG is affiliated with its own brewery, and the beer was excellent – particularly if you, like me, are sick of lager. Sure, Czech pilsner is meant to be the king of beer, but once you’ve drunk gallons of the stuff, you tend to crave something darker and ale-ier. The červené pivo, ruby ale, was especially welcome.
Overall, OSSEGG felt a little bit pretentious. For one thing, it self-identifies as a “pivovar a restaurace” (brewery and restaurant) rather than a “bar” (that’s Czech for bar) or the more down-to-earth “hospoda” (pub). I’d give it an unblemished beer mat and a thoughtfully positioned coat stand.
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When you start learning a language, the first two years of oral lessons are spent responding to surprisingly formulaic questions about your opinion – they’re always to do with some inoffensive, general topic that everyone relates to somehow. At school it was usually about uniform or homework; in first year we graduated to the lofty heights of “Do you prefer living in the countryside or the city?”
The idea is that this helps you start forming full sentences and expressing yourself in your target language. The content of your reply is irrelevant; it’s about responding using new language structures or vocab, and, of course, understanding the question in the first place.
The reason I bring this up is that a decade of language tuition has exposed me to dangerously high levels of this kind of opinion question. As a result, I’ve spent more time than the average person seriously considering whether, for example, I prefer walking or going on the bus, or if I believe homework should be outlawed.
So far no one outside of the classroom has bothered to ask me about my thoughts on E-readers, but you can be sure that I’ll be prepared when they do; my Spanish A-Level speaking exam means I’ve memorised an entire speil weighing up the environmental benefits vs the smell of real paper.
Basically I’m trying to justify why I’m so opinionated about so much pointless bullshit. It’s not [just] that I’m an arsehole, it’s for my degree.
“What’s your favourite time of year,” asked my Russian teacher at the start of my first year oral, “and why?”
I didn’t even hesitate. “Winter!” I said. I mispronounced the word, but she got what I meant.
“You don’t like summer?” she asked.
“No!” I replied. Had my language skills been better, I would’ve gone into a whole thing about how I hate bright lights and hot weather and how I’m most comfortable bundled up in acres of woolly jumper, but I’d only been doing Russian for a semester so I was constrained to stumble through, “I do not like summer at all.”
Summer is bullshit. It’s a struggle every single year.
It’s weird, considering how much I moan about it, that I always seem to forget how it grim it is over winter. Every May I’m surprised again by how gross room temperature feels, how much it unnerves me when the air doesn’t hurt your face a little.
In my twenty-one summer-hating years, I’ve developed a few strategies to get through this, the worst period of the year. I know it’s a little late, but hopefully this will help make the remaining terrible months at least somewhat bearable.
Drink hot drinks
If you think this sounds like bullshit, you’d be right – but it’s true. Drinking a hot drink when you’re already overheating helps encourage your body to cool itself down. Somewhat counter-intuitively, a tall glass of ice water is one of the worst things you could pick to cool you down on a hot day.*
*The number one worst thing is boiling oil. That crosses the line into too hot.
Get your hands on sunglasses
The bigger the better. I’m a firm believer that with sunglasses, acreage is the most important thing. Take a look at these bad boys:
When I’m wearing these the sun doesn’t even come close to touching me.
Think like a bat
If the daytime is too hot, do the logical thing and avoid the sun at all costs. Become a night watchman, set your alarm for 6pm, reject sunlight. This strategy does mean you’ll lose most of your friends and have to spend a decent chunk of your salary on vitamin D supplements, but at least you’ll retain your ghostly, white pallour.
Incidentally, in St Petersburg, where I’m based at the time of writing, this isn’t such a ludicrous idea. I mean, it’s still pretty stupid, but at least we have White Nights here, which is when the sun never really sets and you get insane scenes like the one below. This picture was taken at midnight.
If you’re anything like me, your two favourite hobbies are eating and complaining.
The trouble with being in physical discomfort for a quarter of the year is that people start tuning out your grievances – there’s only so many times you can flop down next to your mate and moan, “It’s too hot,” before they’ll stop hearing you. As far as I see it, there’s only one way to avoid this – and that’s to graft. Get yourself to a desk, a pad of paper and a biro and brainstorm new, improved ways to express the idea that it’s warm and you’re angry about it.
With this specific kind of complaining, there’s a delicate balance to be struck: you need to convey the deterioration of your body without being so graphic and making people think about your sweaty pits in too much detail.
One of my current favourites is to say that my organs are sweating. It’s pretty grim; it tells the listener how fed up I am; and you don’t imagine anything too offensively awful when I roll up and skrike, “Maaaaaaaaaate, my brain is sweating.”
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